moeslein



(No Model.)

3 Sheets-h-Sheet 1. v v MOBSLBIN.

HAT SEWING MACHINE.

a Patented Apr.3. 1883.

mimlnu 3 Sheets-Sheet'I 2.

V. MOESLEIN'.

HAT SEWING MACHINE.

Patented Apr. 3,1883.

(No Model.)

um: .im

WPIEEEEE:

(No Model.) l 3 Sheets-Sheet 3. V. MOBSLEIN.

. HAT SEWING MACHINE.

No. 275,067. Patented Apri-3, 1883.

WTHEEEEE:

einen.

PATENT VALENTINE MOESLEIN, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

HAT=SEWING MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 275,067, dated April 3, 1883. Application filed August 18, 1882. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be-it known that I, VALENTINE MoEsLEiN, of the city, county, and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing-Macl1ines, ot' which the following is a specification.

My invention is intended more particularly for sewing sweat-bands into hats, and I have for this purpose devised a peculiar construction ofthegeneral framework and ot' the nee-- dle-operating mechanism, which allows all shapes ot' hats with brims of greatly varying width to be operated upon with unusual facility. I have also devised means for controlling the position of certain gages or guides, whereby the introduction and removal of the hats is rendered more convenient.

The accompanying three sheets of drawings form a part of this specification, and represent what I consider the best means of carrying out the invention.

Figure l is a side elevation of my improved machine. Fig. 2 is a plan thereof. Fig. 3 is a plan ot' the table of the machine and of the adjacent parts, the presser-foot bar and the needle-bar' being shown in section. This and all the following iigures are on a larger scale than Figs. l and 2. Fig. et is afront elevation ot' the needle-plate of `the machine, of the presser-foot and its attachments, of the needlebar, and of the parts under the plate. This figure shows the presser-foot in the elevated position, and the part which protects the feed and the hook mechanisms turned downward to expose said mechanisms tothe view. Fig. 5 is aV side elevation, partly in section, corresponding to Fig. 4. Fig. 6 is a similar view, showing the presserfoot in its lowered posi` tion. Fig. 7 is a front elevation corresponding to Fig. 4, but with a certain member added, and showing a part of a hat placed in position to be sewed. Fig. 8 is a side elevation of Fig. 7. Fig. 9 is a horizontal section through certain parts on the line s s, Fig. 8. Fig. 10 is a plan showing a modification of a detail.

Similar letters of reference indicate corresponding parts in all the tigures.

A is the bed-plate ot' the machine, formed with two standards, A' A2, which form the bearings for the main or driving shaft B. The front standard, A2, also Vsupports the needleplate C, thelatter being fixed thereto by means of a screw, c, and one or more dowel-pins. (Not represented.) Motion is imparted to the shaft B by any ordinary or suitable means, by hand or through a belt. The drawings represent a ily-wheel, B', formed with two grooves of different diameters for receiving a driving-cord.

D is a goose neck projecting forward from near the front end of the bed-plate A, then upward, and then backward again, its end forming the head D', which carries thepresser-foot and the needle-bars.

The needle-bar E receives its vertical recip rocating motion through a curved link, F, the upper end of which is connected to the needlebar E by means ot' a screw-stud, e, while its lower end isjoined to a lever, G, by means of a screw-stud,f. The lever G turns on a center, g, and receives its motion from an eccentric on the main shaft B throughapitman, H, to which its short arm is connected by means of a ball-and-socket joint.

The arrangement of the goose -neck D in front of the plate C, and the transmission of motion to the needle bar E through a correspondingly shaped and located arm, F, and lever G, allow the hat I (shown in dotted lines in Fig. l) to be placed in a most convenient position for the operator, without necessitating its being bent out ot' shape in any ot' its parts, the crown being entirely free on all sides except at the lower part, where it rests upon the needle-plate, while a sufcient space is provided between the standard A2 and the goose-neck D and link F to allow liberal accommodation for the brim of the hat or for the overhanging part of other material to be sewed.

The feed mechanism and the hook J for the formation of a chain-stitch may be of any ordinary well-known construction. In the drawings I have shown these parts as of the Willcox & Gibbs style; but it is well understood that I can employ a shuttle for the formation of the stitch.

The spool-support d and the thread-tension devices also maybe of any approved construe tion, it being understood that the support el be arranged forward of the table C, so that the thread passes from the front to the head D', and thence down to the needle, so as not to interfere with the hat-body I.

The presser-foot K is raised and lowered by means of an eccentric cam, L, actingin the ordinary manner on a projection on the presserfoot bar. A

M is a guide which holds the brim of the hat against the feed and hook protector N, and serves thus to guide the hat along during the operation without the necessity of controlling the direction ot' its motion by hand. The sweat-leather is fed in under the needle through a slot, 7s, formed in the presser-foot, as shown, and the sewing on of the sweat-leatheL is consequently effected with the sweat-leather projecting horizontally out of the crown of the hat, above the guide M, While the latter holds the hat-brim downward in its normal position. When the sewing is completed andthe hat is removed from the machine, the sweat-leather has simply to ne turned inward into the crown, afold being thus produced in the sweat-leather along the line of stitching.

In order to facilitate the introduction and removal of the hat without the necessity of bending it out of shape, I mount the guide M in such manner on the presser-foot that it not only rises and descends with the latter, but also that it is turned into a horizontal position when raised. For this purpose the arm lm, which carries the guide M, is mounted on a shaft, m', which latter is capable of rocking in the downwardly-projecting part k of the presser-foot. Asprin g, m2, surrounding the shaft m tends to turn the latter constantly toward the left, so as to cause the guide M to apply with gentle pressure against theface of the protectorN or againstthe interposed hat-brim; but when the presser-foot is being raised a cam-shaped arm, 'm3, projecting from the shaft m', comes in con- *tact with the stationarycam-surface d/,mounted on the head D', and consequently the shaft on is caused to turn to the right against the force of the spring 'm2, thus turning the guide M into the horizontal position illustrated in Figs. 3 and 4, and holding it therein while the presser-foot remains raised.

In many cases it is desired to sew between the hat-body and the sweat-leather what is called the oil-muslin.7 This is a ribbon of oil-silk or other suitable fabric, having a hem, in which is introduced a thin reed of cane, whalebone, or the like. It is desirable to effeet the hemming ol" the oil-silk and the introduction therein ofthe reed and the sewing of this member and of the sweat-leather onto the hat all in one operation and by one single line of stitching. For this purpose a gage, O, is used, as illustrated in Figs. 7, 8, and 9. The hem in the oil-silk is formed by the gage o, and the reed is introduced therein through the interl'ere with the introduction and removal of the hats, and I have therefore devised means for removing the same out of the way with great facility and without necessitating the use of a screw-driver or other tool. The gage O is mounted on the lower extremity of an arm, O', so that it may be adjusted toward and from the needle, aseircumstances may require. The upper end ofthe arm 0' is capable ofturning with suicient friction on a screw-stud, cl2,

Isenin the head D', as represented. Whenever it is desired to introduce a hat into the machine or to remove it therefrom, or to sew sweat-bands1 onto hats without the intermediate oil-silk, the arm O is simply turned upward toward theleft, thus bringing the gage O out of the way and into a position where it will not interfere with any other part of the machine nor inconvenience the operatorin any manner.

Fig. 10 shows amodilieation ot'this lastfeature. According to this construction the presser-foot K is formed with two projecting pins, 7a2, and the gage O with two corresponding losely-iittin g holes, as illustrated in dotted mes. is simply slipped upon the pins k2.

Modications may be made in the details without departing from the principle of the invention or sacrificing the advantages thereof. Certain parts may be used without the others but I prefer the whole combined and arranged substantially as shown.

I claim as my invention- 1. A sewing-machine for hats and analogous goods, having a goose-neck, D, on one side, and an operating-shaft, B, on the opposite side of the stitch-forming mechanism,` in combination with each other and with the lever G, mounted at a lower level, and with the connections F and H, so as to provide clear spaces for the body and brim ofthe hat, substantially as herein specified.

2. In a machine for sewing sweat-bands onto hats, the guide M, carried on thepresser-foot, in combination with meansm2 m3, connected to the presser-foot, and with astationary cam, d,whereby the guide M receives a turning motion, in addition to the up-and-down motion, when the presser-foot is raised orlowered, substantially as and for the purposes herein specified.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto set my hand, at New York city, this 12th day ot' August, 1882, in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

VALENTINE MOESLEIN. NVitnesses:

gage o. The position of this gage O when in place for use is necessarily such that it would A. H. GENTNER, H. A. J oHNs'roNE,

When it is desired to use the'gage O, it

IOO

IIO 

